Kaleidoscopic Vision

Mary Katrantzou is from Greece.

Does this give her an edge in the creativity department?

Utilizing her technical expertise and vision on several levels - design, digital print, construction - she brings fashion into a new millennium, never mind a new century!

In her collections, Mary sees potential design value in what has previously been considered mundane, even ordinary, and elevates these inspirations through her intensive digital process to a new level of heretofore unthought of wearablilty. Typewriter chic,  lampshade details, matching boots, all elaborately and masterfully detailed.

And did we say beautiful?  Beautiful!! Talk about elevation!

Every decision she makes design-wise is informed by her unique and acute awareness of the patterns and potential only really seen by her.  She sees her surroundings from a completely different angle.

It's just a twist of the kaleidoscope to her.

For us, a revelation.

For her, just another day's amazing creativity brought to bear on a number 2 pencil!

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Who's Your Daddy??

Do you know Thom Browne?

Does ANYONE know Thom Browne?

Thom Browne has an agenda/collection checklist that goes something like this:

1. subversive - check

2. perverse - check

3. attention-grabbing at all costs (coffins!) - check

4. lobster-claw mitts to the floor (where appropriate) - check

5. linebacker chic - both men AND women - check

6. androgyny - check

Just your typical Thom Browne throw-down.

OK, Thom - we get it.  Just don't put us in a headlock!!

In the reviews of these collections from the fashion press, there is an effort to compartmentalize, to demystify, to make sense of the motivations and REAL meaning of the collection, the intentions of the designer - what was he really trying to say? Intriguing to say the least.

Well, subtexts and interpretations and influences there may be, but let's focus on the most important question: 

What about the beautiful, couture-level clothing?

And, if we are going to have a contest as to which designer has the claim to being most outrageous, I can think of several other candidates.  Alexander McQueen, John Galliano and Marc Jacobs come to mind.

Frankly, why are we surprised at Thom's output and viewpoint?  What would you expect of the love child of Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador Dali??  Just saying.

Having viewed his womenswear collections of the past several seasons on YouTube, I KNOW I'm right!

The updated high Thirties aesthetic a la Gerald and Sara Murphy and Pat O'Brian at Notre Dame, the craftsmanship details and deliberate exaggeration of his clothing, combine to present an impressively dynamic originality, which I would not only wear, but would collect.

An amazing talent!  And here is the test: can you wait until his next collection/performance?

I'm afraid I can't!!

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Ethnic Treasure

On my European trip after graduating from college, I had the classic "Europe on $5.00 a Day" itinerary all mapped out, with my sister and college roommate.

Luxembourg Airlines, Eurailpass, and enough money for three months of travel down to the minute of the return flight, 1970 prices to be sure!

Everything went according to schedule until we decided to go to Ibiza. The money and the plans got a bit curtailed after that, but that is another story!

After a boat trip from Barcelona to Ibiza, with the attendant meeting on board of various student types on their way to Kathmandu and ashrams in India - and invitations to accompany said types - we landed in Ibiza ready for some fun in the Mediterranean sun.

Who should we meet literally one step off the boat, but a group of Dutch guys, who steered us to great housing right off the ocean, and in close proximity to all the fun? We had a great time, of course, but we didn't meet Mick Jagger.

We then went back by car to Geneva after two weeks on Ibiza with one of the Dutch boys who had a car.

Fast forward to three weeks later, in Amsterdam, where, walking down a back street by a canal, we encountered the same group of guys!

We were amazed, but what was more amazing was the shop we happened to be standing near as we were chatting.

Bell over the door, I chanced inside, as I had seen some lovely items (that might be souvenir-worthy) in their multi-paned 17th century Vermeer-like window. Charmed, I was sure.

I in fact found something that I have loved to this day; a set of Russian dolls in their ethnic costumes, painted, and adorned with tissue headdresses.

About 4" tall each, there were four. I parted with the equivalent of a dollar for these beautiful dolls.

These many years later, I was so reminded of that moment when I found the Kenzo Spring/Summer Collection of 2011 online.

The over the top references, explosion of color and headdress, layer upon layer of patterns and fabrics, everything represented and worn simultaneously, from Ecuadorean hats to three foot headdresses to Azerbaijan national costumes and wraps and capes and five skirts - just the splendor of the full collection on view took me back to that day on that canal, and to a very carefree time in my life.

And a few years later, after that trip, I married a Dutchman.  Life is so interesting, isn't it?

See more at our Pinterest board http://pinterest.com/rarewonderblog/kenzo/

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The Eye of the Beholder

Given the nature of fashion and the apparency of newness that must be served every season, the burden is on designers to create something memorable that will move the game in a different direction.

That's a lot of pressure.

While some designers have figured out their message long since and know their niche and their customer
intimately - Ralph, Oscar, Armani, to name  just a few - there are others who respond aggressively to the idea of creating something "new" and proceed accordingly.

Let's take Marc Jacobs, as one high-profile example.

Responsible for not only Louis Vuitton but for his namesake collections, he has rocked a boat or two in his time,
and the new season is no exception.

While definitely getting the memo that stripes and graphics were the thing for the Spring of 2013 in one collection,
he hearkened back to his now infamous grunge collection from the early 90's in his Resort 2013 collection, putting 20ish years between that moment and 2013.

Either you liked it then, or you didn't.

Same this time around, but prettier and a little more accessible, because the eye has now become accustomed to dissonance as well as to harmony, thanks to Dries Van Noten, Kenzo and others who have been mining this territory for many years.

Having said that, there is definitely shock value in runway shows, that is then followed up, hopefully, in actual sales, and mad copying by the fast fashion houses, to cash in on the trend.

If the runway is a precursor, the effect has been duly created.

People have noticed.

Let the trickle down begin!!

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